Wedding Day

This morning was like no other morning. At 5:45 I awoke to incredibly loud music. Rock concert loud. Then as suddenly as it came it went away. I thought I’d dreamt it. Okay, roll over, go back to sleep.

Then a few seconds later there it was again. I was not asleep. I followed my ears out to the balcony and then realized it’s wedding day, Khmer style.

I saw them putting up the tenting the night before, draped with very bright satin. Shimmering panels of pink, red and gold flapping in the breeze. This morning started the big day, ushered in with deafening music played with utter disregard for the other 99 percent of the neighbors who are sound asleep.

Weddings are very big in Cambodia. They usually erect a tent occupying an entire lane of the street in front of the parent’s house. Makeshift catering is located nearby with huge woks the size of airplane tires. And they can go on for two days.

As I peered over the balcony I saw guests arriving at 6am, dressed to the nines. Women in slinky silk gowns, the men less so. At the sound of a rather odd clamoring gong people began gathering about 100 yards away from the pavilion. In just a few minutes they all began marching in a double file line to the tune of a one-man stringed band. All of this happening just below my balcony. It was amazing. I felt a bit disrespectful standing there shirtless in my North Face gym shorts.

I’ve not been to a Cambodian wedding but over the time I’ve been here I’ve encountered countless weddings. They really do weddings big here. As I understand it there are up to eight changes of costume for the bride and groom. I mean full regalia. It is perhaps one of the largest industries in Cambodia.

By the way, no pictures for this one. I took my camera to the office yesterday and left it there overnight. Never again.