Life in Battambang

I'm on a three day trip upcountry, near the lake, but beyond where I went last week, about 5 hours by bus from Phnom Penh. Battambang is the second largest Cambodian city at about 150,000 people. Today I went out to several villages along the river, which is the lifeblood of transportation and commerce (fishing) in the area. Let me tell you, I'm not in Kansas anymore.

I just wish you could be with me for an hour to experience this country on the back of a moped, to see for yourself what flashes before your eyes as you pass life by...a narrow dirt lane, a group of naked children swimming in muddy water, two saffron-cloaked monks holding umbrellas in the scorching sun, children swaying to and fro on oversized bicycles, mopeds with three-four-five passengers, three goats blocking traffic, disbelief and yet wide and smiling eyes as the "barangue" passes by (colloquial for Westerner), a massive tent being erected in the yard for a coming wedding (big deal here), ramshackle shop after shop in the small village market area, thatched homes on 8 foot stilts, men wrapped only towels, ancient pagodas dotting the landscape at the heart of each tiny community...

Behind each "snapshot" of life is a rich story of how life is in this part of the world and how it has been for centuries. It is life being lived out in the simplest ways but with incredibly purposeful action, a response to life's challenges so that man can survive. I can only tell you that it is a depth of experience for which words come not easily.

I love Battambang because it is Cambodia in daily life, not for the tourist, but for themselves. Nothing spectacular, simply life being lived in a way that is truly not of the world as I have known it. And what a treat it is for one who takes the time just to behold it.

first week on the job

I’ve just spent my first week working in my new job. The first couple of days doing the things that happen to most people – feeling a bit awkward with new surroundings, including learning Khmer names that don’t have an easy rhythm for a Westerner.

On Wednesday I headed to the field with my two Cambodian colleagues from the Programme Office, Piseth and Yanat. We went about three hours away to Pursat, one of 24 provinces in Cambodia, situated on Tonle Sap Lake, which is the heart of Cambodia in many ways. Geographically it sits centrally, backfilled by the Mekong River during the rainy season, and also at the heart of Cambodia’s economy because of its abundant fish and natural resources.

We visited a mushroom farming project waaaaayyyyyy out in the country. I mean way out. This is where people stared at me in friendly wonderment because very likely many of them had never seen a western white man before.

The mushroom project was started by one of our volunteers, Biro from India, who is supporting very poor rice farmers to supplement their incomes by growing a second crop out of rice season. 20 families have now learned how to increase their incomes by about 50,000 Riel, or about $12 for one month’s work. This translates to about a 5% increase in ANNUAL income for these people. Hard to get your head around that one, isn’t it?

The second day we visited Kampong Chhnang which is known for its clay pots. I’ve uploaded a photo of a woman who was taught to make these simple but amazing water jugs by hand. She makes them entirely by hand, as has been handed down by her elders. You can see the unfinished one on the ground while she completes the one in her lap. She gets 3,000 Riel ($0.75) per pot.

Last night VSO had a welcome party for us new volunteers. Nearly every volunteer from around the country attended, some traveling 10 or more hours to get here. A “snapshot” moment I remember was simply seeing the crowd of 100 heads or so and feeling such immense gratitude to join forces with people who are committed to make such a difference here.

A couple of you asked about traffic here. Well, it’s thick and horrific to my Western eye. Which side of the road do they drive on? BOTH! I mean it’s the most confounding experience I think I’ve ever had, and yet it works. Forget traffic lights, stop signs or one-way streets – these are all optional and grossly ignored. But I’ve gotten used to it – the trick is to keep moving and just get in the flow! I’ll take some pictures during rush hour from my balcony so you can get a sense of it. Unreal.

Settling In

It’s St. Patrick’s Day morning. I haven’t checked it out yet but I don’t think there’s a parade scheduled for today anywhere in Cambodia! Having a wee bit o’ Irish in me I think I’ll find a quiet corner and toast St. Pat with one Guiness, if I can find it.

I arrived on Thursday in Phnom Penh at 7:30pm from Bangkok. That was the fourth flight of 26 hours of flying & connecting via Cincinnati, New York City (JFK) and Bangkok. Let me tell you, that was a loonnnnggggg flight to Bangkok – some 17 hours airborne. But, believe it or not, it wasn’t that bad. I saw five movies that I had wanted to catch up on, had three fine meals, excellent service, etc. Our flight took us directly over the top of the world, crossing the North Pole and cutting diagonally across Europe and Asia. We even flew directly over Kabul, Afghanistan. What a trip.

I was greeted at the airport by Pisit, an administrator for VSO, who delivered my special visa. We drove straight to my flat, which is on a somewhat bustling street corner in the downtown area of Phnom Penh. It’s Cambodia’s capitol and largest city with over 2.5 million. The next biggest city is 155,000 – it is a very rural country.

Yesterday I awoke pretty refreshed considering the length of the flights. Although I crossed 11 time zones I am surprised at the speed of my adjustment. I do have a few tricks about handling jetlag that seem to work very well. Both nights here I’ve had very restful, complete nights sleeping.

Khmers (Cambodian people) tend to go to bed early and rise equally as early. I think they like to get a lot done in the coolness of the morning and then coast during the really hot times of the day in the afternoon. Right now the street is buzzing at 7:45am and has been doing such since about 6am. Fine with me because I do like to rise early. Amazing how this bustling street down below will still to practically no noise by 9pm.

I went by my office yesterday to collect some personal things I had left here during my holiday time in January. I was also given my official transportation – a bicycle. This will be my primary mode of transport to and from the office and around town to do my things. Most transport here is two-wheeled, either bicycle or motorbike (the Khmer family car).

Traffic is thick and very confusing to the Western eye, in fact it’s downright terrifying until you understand what is going on. Then with a deep breath you just hop right in and realize that even with few stoplights or stop signs, it all works. It is a sea of humanity that has an easy flow to it where people all seem to work together. Cars, trucks, buses, motos, tuk-tuks, bikes, pedestrians, cyclos – you name it. There’s space for everyone, but you have to keep moving, varying your speed to accommodate what is happening all around you. A good metaphor for a well-lived, connected life, I think.

It's Tuesday morning, the day before I leave and I have more to do in the next 12 hours than usual when I go overseas. This routine is unfamiliar to me because I've never packed for a six month trip. And how can I possibly put all of my life in two large suitcases and a backpack?

I'm feeling a bit blue this morning, truthfully. Yes, I'm excited about what lies ahead, but a bit sad of what I'll miss here. My family, my friends, my dog, my homeplace... This morning I sat and read the paper on the front porch, the one that overlooks the valley and mountain range in the distance and simply enjoyed my last sunrise in East Tennessee for awhile.

I added a couple of elements to the webpage in the upper righthand corner. There you can click on the weblinks and learn general facts about Cambodia from our friends at the CIA and also check out the current weather and satellite pictures.

So I'll sign out for now and sign back on after Wednesday, March 15 when I've landed in Phnom Penh.

getting ready to go

It's just a week from leaving for my assignment in Phnom Penh. I'm a bit anxious for what lies ahead, yet very excited at the same time - it's the thrill of doing something very new and at the same time doubting whether you have the ability to do it...you know what I mean? And there are a thousand thoughts about what needs to be done at home before a long absence - trying to anticipate all that needs to be handled while I'm gone, like bills, chores, etc.

I'm leaving next Wednesday morning and will be arriving in Phnom Penh nearly 31 hours later. Four flights and many, many shifts in reality. I'll have four days to recover the 12 hour time difference and then my work will start on Monday, March 19.